Naslov (srp)

Biokompatibilne niskoenergetske nanoemulzije sa uljem semena maline (Rubus idaeus L., Rosaceae) za kozmetičku primenu: formulaciona istraživanja i in vitro/in vivo bioperformanse : doktorska disertacija

Autor

Gledović, Ana N., 1982-

Doprinosi

Janošević Ležaić, Aleksandra, 1980-
Ilić, Tanja, 1986-
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, 1978-
Savić, Snežana, 1971-
Pantelić, Ivana, 1982-
Antić-Stanković, Jelena, 1969-

Opis (srp)

Iako upotreba kozmetičkih sirovina biljnog porekla potiče još od antičkih vremena, u modernim kozmetičkim proizvodima ona doživljava renesansu, zahvaljujući mogućnostima naprednih formulacija da optimizuju njihove performanse. Stoga je u poslednje dve decenije nanotehnološki pristup zadobio veoma važno mesto, nudeći brojne prednosti, kao što su poboljšanje stabilnosti i aktivnosti osetljivih aktivnih sastojaka i mogućnost izbora postupaka izrade.Predmet naučnog istraživanja ove doktorske disertacije bio je razvoj formulacija biokompatibilnih niskoenergetskih nanoemulzija sa uljem semena maline (INCI: Rubus idaeus seed oil), prirodnim kozmetički aktivnim sastojkom sa značajnim antioksidativnim potencijalom. Kao rezultat opsežnih formulacionih istraživanja, uspešno su razvijene dve različite vrste nanoemulzija (na bazi polisorbata 80 i poliglicerilskih estara), pri čemu je pokazan njihov veliki potencijal za inkorporiranje, ne samo ulja semena maline, već i drugih prirodnih aditiva. Pokazana je kompatibilnost obe vrste nanoemulzija sa hidroglikolnim ekstraktima (ploda maline ili ploda, tj. žira hrasta kitnjaka) i etarskim uljem origana, kao deo globalnog trenda u kozmetičkoj industriji koji podrazumeva zamenu sintetskih aditiva sa prirodnijim alternativama. Tokom eksperimentalnog rada, posebna pažnja bila je usmerena na karakterizaciju prelaznih faza različitog koloidnog tipa (mikroemulzije i tečno-kristalne faze), koje se javljaju tokom dobijanja nanoemulzija primenom metode inverzije faza usled promene sastava, kao inovativnog i ekološki prihvatljivog pristupa sa smanjenim utroškom energije i velikim potencijalom primene u industriji (niskoenergetske nanoemulzije). Primenom niza komplementarnih tehnika detaljno je ispitan uticaj nanoemulzifikacije i uticaj dodatka različitih aditiva na karakteristike i stabilnost nanoemulzija sa uljem semena maline.Kao jedan od glavnih doprinosa ove disertacije, ističu se ispitivanja bioperfomansi ulja semena maline per se i nakon inkorporiranja u dve vrste nanoemulzija (bez ili sa različitim aditivima). U tom smislu, superiornije karakteristike i bolju dugoročnu stabilnost pokazale su poliglicerilske nanoemulzije izrađene sa minimum 98% sastojaka prirodnog porekla, kao prototip prirodnih kozmetičkih nanoemulzija. Po prvi put, potvrđeno je očuvanje antioksidativne aktivnosti ulja semena maline, uz poboljšanje oksidativne stabilnosti i efikasnosti prema ćelijama humanog malignog malanoma (Fem-X) upotrebom poliglicerilskih nanoemulzija i/ili koantioksidanasa. Razvijene formulacije poliglicerilskih nanoemulzija pokazale su i dobru biokompatibilnost primenom in vitro metoda, kao i tokom in vivo ispitivanja na humanim dobrovoljcima, uz izražen efekat hidratacije kože. Generalno, dobijeni rezultati ukazuju na veliki potencijal za dalji razvoj biokompatibilnih poliglicerilskih nanoemulzija za kozmetičku primenu.

Opis (srp)

Farmacija - Kozmetologija / Pharmacy- Cosmetology Datum odbrane: 23.09.2024.

Opis (eng)

Although the use of cosmetic raw materials of plant origin dates back to ancient times, it is experiencing a renaissance in modern cosmetic products, thanks to the possibilities of advanced formulations to optimize their performance. Therefore, the nanotechnological approach has taken a very important place in the last two decades, offering numerous advantages, such as improving the stability and activity of sensitive active ingredients and the choice of different manufacturing methods.The scientific research object of this doctoral dissertation was the formulation development of biocompatible low-energy nanoemulsions with raspberry seed oil (INCI: Rubus idaeus seed oil) a natural cosmetic active ingredient with significant antioxidant potential. As a result of extensive formulation research, two different types of nanoemulsions (based on polysorbate 80 and polyglycerol esters) have been successfully developed, showing their great potential for the incorporation of not only raspberry seed oil but also other natural additives. The compatibility of both types of nanoemulsions with hydroglycolic extracts (red raspberry fruit or sessile oak fruit, i.e. acorn extract) and oregano essential oil has been demonstrated as part of the global trend in the cosmetic industry to replace synthetic additives with natural alternatives. During the experimental work, particular attention was focused to the characterization of transient phases of different colloidal type (microemulsions and liquid crystalline phases) that occur during the preparation of nanoemulsions by the phase inversion method due to the change in composition, as an innovative and environmentally friendly approach with reduced energy consumption and great potential for application in industry (low-energy nanoemulsions). By applying a series of complementary techniques, the influence of nanoemulsification and the impact of the addition of various additives on the properties and stability of nanoemulsions with raspberry seed oil were studied in detail.One of the most important contributions of this dissertation is the bioperformance testing of raspberry seed oil by itself and after incorporation into two types of nanoemulsions. In this sense, polyglyceryl etser-based nanoemulsions, which consist of at least 98% of ingredients of natural origin and are considered the prototype for natural cosmetic nanoemulsions, showed superior characteristics and better long-term stability. It has been confirmed for the first time that nanoemulsions based on polylglyceryl esters (with or without co-antioxidants) can successfully preserve the antioxidant activity of raspberry seed oil while improving its oxidative stability and efficiency against human malignant melanoma cells (Fem-X). The developed polyglyceryl nanoemulsions showed a good biocompatibility using in vitro methods, as well as during in vivo tests on human volunteers, with a pronounced skin hydration effect. Overall, the obtained results indicate great potential for the further development of biocompatible polyglyceryl nanoemulsions for cosmetic applications.

Jezik

srpski

Datum

2024

Licenca

Ovo delo je licencirano pod uslovima licence
Creative Commons CC BY-NC-ND 3.0 AT - Creative Commons Autorstvo - Nekomercijalno - Bez prerada 3.0 Austria License.

http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/at/legalcode

Predmet

OSNO - Opšta sistematizacija naučnih oblasti, Farmaceutska tehnologija i kozmetologija

nanoemulsions, low-energy nanoemulsification, nanotechnology, PIC method, red raspberry seed oil, red raspberry fruit extract, french oak fruit extract, antioxidant, oxidative stability, natural cosmetics

OSNO - Opšta sistematizacija naučnih oblasti, Farmaceutska tehnologija i kozmetologija

nanoemulzije, niskoenergetska nanoemulzifikacija, nanotehnologija, PIC metoda, ulje semena maline, ekstrakt ploda maline, ekstrakt ploda hrasta kitnjaka, antioksidans, oksidativna stabilnost, prirodna kozmetika

615.262:615.322(043.3)